Handbrake springs

With the brake lines in my list of things to do was getting shorter, so next up was fitting the two handbrake return springs.

Shamelessly copying Simon's method I fixed two rivnuts to the chassis, cavity waved the holes and installed the springs.

Another job finished.

Do you know the blogger interface really does not like Internet Explorer!

Rear Brake pipes conpleted.

With my new roll of pipe, flaring tool and a rough idea of what I wanted to do I set about tackling that little pipe link from the T splitter to the rear calliper.

1st step was to get repeatable results from the flaring tool, I worked out that about 1mm protruding above the tool gave a good result whereas the instructions advised 0.5mm.

After a few practice runs I settled on using a double flare instead of a single flare. To me it looked more like the GD supplied pipes with their universal flares and it looked to be more robust than the single flare.

With the pipe cut to length and both fittings attached I was able to start bending, well it took three attempts to get a pipe that fitted. Each time I made up a new pipe and had another go.

The end result clears the cable and lever well and only time will tell if its routing will cause and problems with bits to be fitted in the future.

What I did notice when doing this is that handbrake levers are lower than those I have seen in other build pictures, this is what caused me the most trouble during this pipe work as I couldn't get a tight enough bend out of the calliper.

Anyway I found that things were not as they seemed, after completing this pipe work I realised that the levers could move up hence increasing the clearance I have achieved in the picture above.

All being well that's that job done.

Transmission choice.

Whilst discussing my brake pipe woes with GD I also raised the which gearbox question. With the wheel and tyre sizes fixed at 18" rims with 275 40's on the back I was able to figure out the transmission ratio that would best suit. Looking at 30mph per 1000 rpm in top I got the following using the TKO600 with the 0.82 5th ratio.

And 5000rpm

The TKO 500 and 600 with 0.68 & 0.64 5th's respectively gave too short a 1st and a massive theoretical top speed in 5th.

Ill run this by Andy at GD before committing though especially as the TKO 600 is more expensive than the 500.

Quiet Month

Been a bit of a quiet month in the garage with no real progress.

I set about fitting the two rear calliper feeds from the union, the less said about that the better. Suffice to say I now have a coil of kunifer pipe and a new end fitting on order, at least this way I can now faff about with it as much as I like until I'm really happy with it. This also gives me the opportunity to remake one of the front pipes that I was not happy with.

Left side fitted. Needs to be done again I think as its too close to the cable.

Right side, kinked it whilst bending! Is knackered.


Had a quick chat to someone at GD, didn't get his name that's not too good! Anyway was advised to use a 1" mandrel to make the initial bend out of the calliper, that should stop the pipe collapsing.

New roll of pipe and new fitting arrived so ready to give it a go this weekend.

Throttle Bracket & Return Springs.

After looking around for a solution for the throttle return springs I eventually wound up at Jegs. So one internet order later I an the happy owner of a Jegs throttle bracket with return springs.
Ordered it on Tuesday, arrived on Thursday. Cost $78 delivery buts that's quick! (Jegs only ship by FedEx which is not the cheapest)

Step 1.
Remove existing studs and replace with 2" ones. Ive only changed the two on the side of the bracket.

Step 2.
Fit bracket and tighten nuts.

Step 3.
Fit return spring attachment to carb linkage.


Job done until I get the throttle cable and sort the end out.

Mind Change on Gauges.

Well I knew it wouldnt last, me sticking with an idea, not a regular occurrence round here!

It all started when I was stuck in traffic the other day and a Golf pulled up with bright blue illumination from the stereo and dash. I looked over and thought thats a bit "chav", then I realised that was what I was going to do to my GD. Further to that I have recently become aware that I struggle to read text with bright blue illumination so choosing gauges with bright blue text is not such a hot idea.

I still wanted to use autometer as I like their style and reputation for reliability, I also realised I liked gauges with through dial illumination in white, just like my 2008MY CRV. So after hunting through the range I identified Sport Comp II.

And illuminated.

Same gauge line up as before:

Full Sweep.

Half Sweep.

So lets see how long I stick with these!!

Start of another Year.

Happy New Year!

Well all being well 2008 should be a bit better than 07. We had my parents surprise 40th Wedding aniversary party last weekend and that went really well. Hope it continues.

Not much progress so far in 08 although I have hopefully sourced the required bolt for the ACG bracket from http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/ in the States. I needed a 5/16-18 cap head (allen key) bolt at 4 1/2", could I buy one in the UK, could I heck! The bolt is ordered, it's just a case of wait for it to arrive!

I've also ordered the remaining bits to hopefully seal up the oil gallery before taking the engine to the dyno, all being well Febuary should see her fired up for the first time.

Sparky time.

With fuel sorted and the carb to mix in the air the final bit needed for the bang is the ignition wires (this isn't a diesel!).

Having already laid them in to find the right wire for each pot I set about fitting the ends.

The sequence is this:

1. Cut to length.

2. Use strip tool supplied to strip insulation away.

Clever tool this, you just twist it until 9mm of wire pokes out the end, then grip the wire to stop it going through to toll and twist a couple more turns. Pull and off come the insulation.

3. Fold over core and crimp on terminal. (Fold down terminal ears with long nose pliers)

4. Apply silicone lube and slip on boot.

5. Fit to distributor cap.

6. Repeat for all remaining leads.


7. Apply air cleaner with Ford wing nut and stand back to admire tidy wire layout on nearly finished engine.


This however is where it went a bit wrong.

Whilst fixing the wires I followed good old Tom's book, what I didn't check was what I was doing!
I followed the instructions for the HEI ignition module used by Ford, this does not connect the wires in the firing order as the dizzy rotor turns, therefore my firing order is now wrong!

Thinking about it logically I would have realised that something was not right but I was too eager to get it finished, in future I need to think a bit more first!

Luckily for me Ive only had to move four wires around but it has mucked up my tidy layout, still cant be helped. (picture to follow).

Engine Fuel system.

With a final push the engine is now nearly completed.

First off the fitted drive belt looks nice, I prefer the appearance of the poly-V belt over the standard V belt setup. Just looks more chunky!


Next I fitted the fuel pump, here you can see the block off in the bottom holes as I checked they fitted in all four of the outlet holes.

With the blocks offs moved to the side ports, JIC adapters fitted to the inlet & outlet, sealant on both gasket faces and assembly lube on the arm, I installed the pump to the block with a little persuasion.

Now I can connect the fuel lines without interfering with the oil filter take off or water hose.

Next I turned to the fuel lines to complete this side of the job.

After thinking about it I decided to install a filter in the engine bay as well as the boot, this gives double protection and means that the engine is protected when it goes to the dyno. A suitable Summit filter was obtained, with removable element, in a nice red colour of course!

The Aeroquip hose is a "simple" push fit, I say "simple" as its Bl$$dy hard!

1. Measure and cut hose.
2. Choose correct fitting. (fell down here as I fitted two 90° bends first out!!)
3. Lube inside of hose with oil.
4. Push fitting into hose until it bottoms out on the flange.
5. Try to pull hose off (no chance!)

Anyway the link to the in line filter was done with much swearing (the scar has only just faded on my palm!)


Same exercise was carried out once the filter was fitted from the filter to the fuel pump. Following images I have seen from other engine builds I routed my fuel pump under the water neck to keep things tidy. Time will tell if this is a problem but I don't think the water neck is going to exceed the 150°C rating of the hose.


Whilst fiddling with the fuel lines I remembered the choke on the carb. I don't plan to use the choke but have decided not to remove its parts. So as compromise I will hold it open with a spring. To do this I need somewhere to hook said spring.

I located a suitable drilling on the carb, taped it and added a bolt. Done.

With a spring from the brass colour lever you can just see on the left of this picture to the bolt my choke should remain open.

That's it for today.

Drive belt woes...

Well as promised the new drive belt arrived on Monday, was fitted Monday night and removed again straight away. Its too long! Looks like I measured up wrong, so I tried again and this time came out with a figure 1" shorter than previous.

Checking the Medway catalogue identified the next belt down so I ordered one. It arrived and fits nicely.

End of problem. Now I have a spare belt 1" too long for my application. Never mind, just remember measure twice buy once!

Bypass hose & Ignition wires.

Following Simon's advice and good experience with www.performancesiliconehoses.com (PSH) I ordered a 90° 16mm bend for the thermostat bypass hose. This I thought would look better than the usual black rubber effort. Expecting the stated 3-4 week delivery I was surprised that it pitched up after 1 week. Looks good.

After a bit of cutting about it fits nicely and is finished off with stainless band clamps. I'm still wondering if I can get some red ones, I know Revotech used to sell them but I cant see them on their website so a phone call is needed.

Next up I fitted the distributor in so that I can measure out for the ignition wires. The dizzy will stay loose until the engine has been timed up on Tim Adams dyno.

The wires were they sorted by length and fitted into the cable holders on the engine.

With every new bit added its really starting to look good.

My latest order from Summit arrived within 1 week of shipping, great stuff and with no import or VAT to pay! (Cue bill through the post!!) So I could fit the fuel pump base. The next bit is going to be interesting as I have to operate the level to full stroke whilst doing up the 10 perimeter bolts to 25 ft/lb's with a hex key! Calibrated wrist required here I think.

Continuing on the fuel side I also fitted the rigid line to JIC adapter, after cutting down the 3/8"" hard fuel line the adapter would not fit over so very careful adjustment to the pipe OD was carried out using a fine paper.


After about an hour and a minor amount of RSI I was able to fit the compression fitting and ferrule, apply loctite 577 fuel safe thread sealer and fir the -6 JIC to -6 JIC steel adapter.

What Ive just realised is I now need to buy a steel JIC push fit fitting to avoid Galvanic corrosion issues by using aluminium and steel fittings at the same joint.

One final thing done today was to measure up for the drive belt. I needed a 44 1/2" belt to be spot on, so after looking around I was enlightened by Happy Jim of the CRC to www.medwaypt.co.uk from whom Ive ordered a 1146K/06. This is a 1146mm (45.10") 3.56mm pitch 6 rib belt, all being well it should arrive on Monday.

That's it for today.

Plumbing bits.

A few nice bits from Think Auto arrived recently:

Oil system including take off plate and remote filter mount. Fittings and sensor adapters (need more of those!).

Fuel system including fittings and pipe also to be used for PCV.

First problem encountered as I purchased the hose finishes for -6 pipe not realising that this -6 pipe has a larger OD, therefore I need the finishers for the -8 pipe! Another order beckons!
Next problem found when trying to make the fuel pump fit. Due to the length of the fittings I either foul the oil filter take off or the water outlet.

So a quick hunt on the Edelbrock site identified a bottom feed adapter plate which is now on its way from the US along with the required fittings.

Topping out!

After a visit to my local bolt suppliers, Wessex Fastners in Swindon, I was able to bolt a few more parts on.

First up the valve covers.

Thats looking better.

Next add 1 x carb.

But dont foget to seal up a few holes.

Finally finish off with a nice new air cleaner assembly.

Its all got to come off again to check various things but I couldnt resist mocking it up.

The next thing on the list is plumbing after I ordered most of the bits I needed from Think Automotive today (very helpful) and I also need a new ACG fan and belt to complete the front.

A bit more on the engine.

Not much done tonight as Im running out of things I can do before I get some more bits and more importantly bolts.

Ive now fitted the painted dipstick support tube. Looks alright I think.

And in a similar vein the ACG bracket and spacers.

This also gives some indication as to why the dipstick tube needed to be modified.

This posting interface is really having trouble!

Thats its for tonight, need bolts for the top ACG bracket support, the tension bar support and the valve covers to move on now.

More engine work.

Back from Japan now and finally getting this blog up to date.

With the chassis rolling I could move it out of the way and get the engine back up on the stand to finish it off.

First up was to sort out the dipstick tube and get that fitted. I trial fitted the ACG and found that the dipstick was trying to pass right through the center of the ACG, no good.

This is because the ACG is supposed to go low on the Ford 302, but due to the steering link bar location it has to go high.

So a fair bit of gentle bending was needed to get the dipstick tube to route another way. But its done and I managed to make a suitable spacer up from one of the ACG bracket spacer off cuts.

All that remains to do is paint it red to match the block and hide the marks on it where it slipped in the vice.

Ive also prepared the ACG bracket spacers for painting and will post up some pictures once they are on the engine.

Next up I figured it was time to set the valve train up so following Tom Monroes book I set the crank up at TDC with No.1 on the ignition stroke. (both valves closed piston at TDC).

In this position a number of the valves could be adjusted, this indexing method saves having to do each valve individually.

Then once the correct valves have been done you rotate the crank 180° and do some more valves and finally another 270° and adjust the final valves.

Here's No.5 inlet is being adjusted (I think it's the inlet!). Basically you tighten the nut down until the push rod just stops turning, then tighten 3/4 of a turn more and lock down the allen grub screw. The 3/4 of a turn puts the correct pre-load on the lifter.

With all valves adjusted the valve train looks like this.

Next job is to fit the ACG bracket and ACG, I cant fit the ACG March pulley as I need a new March fan. The Powermaster fan and pulley are of visibly poorer quality when compared to the March items, I had the March pulley as part of the kit so it felt bad leaving it off. Once I have the fan I can figure the belt length and order that. So more money needs to be spent!