How it works.

I cannot promise this will always be the latest information , but when things are slack in the garage Ill post up what I can.

Thursday, 19 March 2009


Well although the closed sign remains up I'm still working on things.

Deciding how to connect the gearbox to the engine was something I had figured out before I purchased the gearbox. BAE's new kit was going to do the job and all would be fine. When I spoke to BAE the first Ford kit was due in March with others to follow, forward wind to March and as yet no Ford kit. They still intend to make the kit but as insurance I started to work out the other way of doing it before committing to the gearbox rebuild.

The other way is the AK adpater plate to go between the Ford bellhousing and Getrag box. You need an original Ford bellhousing with the 4 bolt toploader pattern and associated clutch fork. Small problem, I don't have one and no one sells them in the UK!

Luckily the CRC came to my rescue (again) and through another member I was put in touch with Dave who just happened to have a bellhousing he did not need. A quick call was made and the deal done for a blockplate, bellhousing, clutch fork and clutch fork rubber boot.

The clutch fork and boot are new. (and L bracket to the left)

Im probably going to buy a Mcleod T bracket which is already slotted to take the fork spring, its stronger and saves weakening the L bracket by slotting it.

The block plate is in bare steel, but new and the bell housing looks new!
The bellhousing part number C5DA-6394-A signifies it is for a 289 from 1965 -1967. Source: David Klee Toploader Transmissions inc.

So thats the major stumbling block sorted. Now I need:

AK Adpater kit
Mopar clutch plate (Real Steel)
Mcleod clutch cover (Real Steel)
Mcleod Release bearing (Real Steel)
Hydraulic pull cylinder (TBC)
Mounting bracket (TBC)

I think thats about it, well chuffed thats sorted!

Saturday, 14 March 2009

Safety thoughts...

I've always had a mind to occupant safety whilst building this car, in particular fire safety. Sitting just in front of a fuel tank, surround by fibreglass that likes to burn and strapped in by a decent harness I feel that something that can give any extra time to get out is vital. If it manages to stop the car destroying itself then even better!

So I started looking around at various extinguisher systems that ranged from a small hand held mounted in the passenger compartment to a full blown plumbed in system with multiple nozzles and electric triggering.

Well me being me I think the full blown system has to be the way to go!

There are various systems on the market and after looking around I think that the lifeline systems look to be the way I will go.

They offer two options in my book.

1. Zero 2000 foam based system.

2. Zero 360 gas based system.

(Click links to see the systems)

Both systems offer boot mounted cylinder with the 360 either stored pressure or remote charge piston option.

Price in my book is irrelevant, yes some may say well what are the chances of you being involved in a fire and why bother with that expense. All I say is that's not something I want to have to justify in future, either to my passengers family or at the pearly gates.

Next big question is which system to go for, the foam or gas? I've seen representation from knowledgeable quarters who say foam, as it has good capability at putting the fire out and keeping it out as it coats the area.

But I've also been advised by Lifeline that the gas system is definitely the best option as it has greater capability at knocking the fire down and putting it out.

I'm told the foam system needs to "see" the fire as the foam is directional so the nozzles need careful positioning, whereas the gas is not directional and floods the area ensuring good coverage.

So further investigation is required I think to make sure the gas system can cope with the open nature of the cob engine bay and how good is it at keeping the fire out.

Whichever system I go for it will be electrically operated and I want to have two dash mounted trigger switches, one easily reachable from each seat position. I'm thinking the flip top covered switch style.

Maybe also a key arm switch to select which switch is live, one for driver only, 2 for passenger and driver. I know the system comes with an off switch but I want to be able to add in a double check to make sure the system does not get accidentally triggered.

I may even add in some additional logic to make sure that the system cannot be armed if either of the two fire switches are in circuit and in the fire position, again more thought needed.

One final though was running the hard line up the chassis now before the body goes on, the gas system uses 8mm coated pipe and the foam 6mm. Either way its not something Id like to try and feed through the body at a later date, looking at Simons build pics (one attached below - hope he wont mind!) I think there will be enough room to feed the tube to a point above the roll bar mount and then couple in the final line from the boot once the body is on.

If you imagine the above picture from the other side without the fuel hose in place then I think the pipe should run through there OK, clipped in place over the mount and on to an inline joint level with the rear shock mount. A small protective cover can then be fashioned to keep the joint safe from road debris.

I think that's about it on this for now, more investigation is required into system suitability.