Coil Bracket

Yet another little job to be knocked off the list. I didnt want to mount the coil to the body of the car and the supplied bracket did not readily fit any of the mounting locations available on the engine. Now I have seen these things secured by just one bolt, but I didnt like that so I took a template from the front of the left hand cylinder head and designed a bracket.



Cleaned and sprayed with clear engine enamel it looks good, the coil is now securely held in place.

Engine update....

IT FITS!!!!!!

Well stone me, it went it in without too many protestations. We had a little bit of mucking about with the engine mounts but eventually she was in. To top it off the gearbox appears to fit OK as well!



Many thanks to Andy J and "its not a cravat!" Malcom T.

Well chuffed!

Well todays the day - hopefully!

There no more time to mess about with tape measures and bits of wood, its time to see if the engine and gearbox will fit in the chassis.

As I appear to be the only person as yet known who has fitted a Getrag gearbox in a GD I may be about to find out why everyone else pays the extra and buys a Tremec! My main aeas of concern are.

1) Gearbox rear mount location relationship to the GD mount tabs.
2) Clutch fork interference with chassis rails and body.
3) Clutch slave bracket interference with chassis rails.

To be honest item 1 could probably be worked around but 2 and 3 may well be deal breakers. So by 18:00 today I will either my very happy with some nice pics to show or very sad with a Getrag gearbox up for sale!!

Watch this space....

Updated video

What I have managed to do in the last few months is update my engine build video. The last one upset Bjorks record label and got pulled for containing about 15 seconds of one of her tracks. Lets see if this one survives a bit longer!!

Oh, you need to turn your speakers on, and up a little bit ;)

Slow going..

Apologies for lack of updates, this is directly proportional to the progress made in the garage.

Since my last post I have now sealed the sump on hopefully for the last time and set the engine down in its cradle. Not a great deal of point adding a picture of that!

So next step is to prep it for storage as its going to be a quite a while before I can stretch to a gearbox and bell housing. (thats another story which I may tell one day).

To lay it up Ive purchased many litres of oil (35!) and a bottle of Engine Guard vapour inhibitor. The plan is to fill the engine pretty much up with oil and then add the Engine Guard to protect the bits not submersed in oil.

So that's going to be it for a while I'm afraid, at least Im not having to sell it, yet.

Leak Repair 2.

OK, so on to leak repair No.2, the rear main seal.

With oil confirmed as leaking out of the rear main seal there was nothing for it other than taking it apart again. The sump came off with a little more resistances this time telling me that Id made a good seal last time.

The main cap was removed and seal inspected, nothing immediately showed up and the crank looked in good nick. I did notice some black crud on the crank, but wasn't sure what it was at that stage.

Reviewing the photo I took showed that the flag on the seal was stressed and had started to break up, I also perceived I saw something on the actual sealing lip.


Removing the block side seal gave further clues, the flag was missing.


Using a feeler gauge I cleared out whatever was between the crank and block, basically bits of melted seal flag. Some of the bits had been engine side so had obviously travelled over the seal lip.

The crank was cleaned and a new seal fitted, this time with the flags removed! Seal clocked to separate block/cap join and seal join and a small dab of silicone on the block before the cap went down.


Job done, now to scrap off all the old sealant ready for sump install No. 3!!

Leak Repair 1.

It says Leak Repair 1 because I'm writing this retrospectively and know what's coming next!

Well I put the engine stand back up and set about finding out where the water leak came from, first off it was evident that the final run really mixed things up.

Obvious candidate was the intake to head seals so off came the top end. All looked OK with no obvious path for water to have made it to my oil. Looking on www.Ford uscle.com I found others talking of oil leaks caused by poor head gaskets, and in particular the Mr Gasket's that I had used. The oil leak in question matched the slight leak which had developed on both heads during the dyno runs. So I travelled further down and removed the first head. What I found was not pretty, the entire deck surface was wet and there was obvious signs of combustion gasses leaking over the cylinder seals.

It looks like the water had found its way under the gaskets and into the oil drain back holes, a slow leak at first which just got worse.

So I purchased some nice new Fel Pro gaskets which just looked better, clear sealing material on both sides in all the right places.

With those in place I set about cleaning the heads and intake of old silicone, what a job! Any way eventually it was all clean and I could re-assemble.

As well as the water leak my sump was leaking oil as well so that came off and what do you know, Mr Gasket had let me down again. This time the Ultraseal one piece gaskets just didn't do the job.

So again new Fel Pro gaskets were used (thanks Tim) with plenty of sealant.

So it was all fixed and ready to be tested again.

Throttle Bracket & Return Springs.

After looking around for a solution for the throttle return springs I eventually wound up at Jegs. So one internet order later I an the happy owner of a Jegs throttle bracket with return springs.
Ordered it on Tuesday, arrived on Thursday. Cost $78 delivery buts that's quick! (Jegs only ship by FedEx which is not the cheapest)

Step 1.
Remove existing studs and replace with 2" ones. Ive only changed the two on the side of the bracket.

Step 2.
Fit bracket and tighten nuts.

Step 3.
Fit return spring attachment to carb linkage.


Job done until I get the throttle cable and sort the end out.

Start of another Year.

Happy New Year!

Well all being well 2008 should be a bit better than 07. We had my parents surprise 40th Wedding aniversary party last weekend and that went really well. Hope it continues.

Not much progress so far in 08 although I have hopefully sourced the required bolt for the ACG bracket from http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/ in the States. I needed a 5/16-18 cap head (allen key) bolt at 4 1/2", could I buy one in the UK, could I heck! The bolt is ordered, it's just a case of wait for it to arrive!

I've also ordered the remaining bits to hopefully seal up the oil gallery before taking the engine to the dyno, all being well Febuary should see her fired up for the first time.

Sparky time.

With fuel sorted and the carb to mix in the air the final bit needed for the bang is the ignition wires (this isn't a diesel!).

Having already laid them in to find the right wire for each pot I set about fitting the ends.

The sequence is this:

1. Cut to length.

2. Use strip tool supplied to strip insulation away.

Clever tool this, you just twist it until 9mm of wire pokes out the end, then grip the wire to stop it going through to toll and twist a couple more turns. Pull and off come the insulation.

3. Fold over core and crimp on terminal. (Fold down terminal ears with long nose pliers)

4. Apply silicone lube and slip on boot.

5. Fit to distributor cap.

6. Repeat for all remaining leads.


7. Apply air cleaner with Ford wing nut and stand back to admire tidy wire layout on nearly finished engine.


This however is where it went a bit wrong.

Whilst fixing the wires I followed good old Tom's book, what I didn't check was what I was doing!
I followed the instructions for the HEI ignition module used by Ford, this does not connect the wires in the firing order as the dizzy rotor turns, therefore my firing order is now wrong!

Thinking about it logically I would have realised that something was not right but I was too eager to get it finished, in future I need to think a bit more first!

Luckily for me Ive only had to move four wires around but it has mucked up my tidy layout, still cant be helped. (picture to follow).

Engine Fuel system.

With a final push the engine is now nearly completed.

First off the fitted drive belt looks nice, I prefer the appearance of the poly-V belt over the standard V belt setup. Just looks more chunky!


Next I fitted the fuel pump, here you can see the block off in the bottom holes as I checked they fitted in all four of the outlet holes.

With the blocks offs moved to the side ports, JIC adapters fitted to the inlet & outlet, sealant on both gasket faces and assembly lube on the arm, I installed the pump to the block with a little persuasion.

Now I can connect the fuel lines without interfering with the oil filter take off or water hose.

Next I turned to the fuel lines to complete this side of the job.

After thinking about it I decided to install a filter in the engine bay as well as the boot, this gives double protection and means that the engine is protected when it goes to the dyno. A suitable Summit filter was obtained, with removable element, in a nice red colour of course!

The Aeroquip hose is a "simple" push fit, I say "simple" as its Bl$$dy hard!

1. Measure and cut hose.
2. Choose correct fitting. (fell down here as I fitted two 90° bends first out!!)
3. Lube inside of hose with oil.
4. Push fitting into hose until it bottoms out on the flange.
5. Try to pull hose off (no chance!)

Anyway the link to the in line filter was done with much swearing (the scar has only just faded on my palm!)


Same exercise was carried out once the filter was fitted from the filter to the fuel pump. Following images I have seen from other engine builds I routed my fuel pump under the water neck to keep things tidy. Time will tell if this is a problem but I don't think the water neck is going to exceed the 150°C rating of the hose.


Whilst fiddling with the fuel lines I remembered the choke on the carb. I don't plan to use the choke but have decided not to remove its parts. So as compromise I will hold it open with a spring. To do this I need somewhere to hook said spring.

I located a suitable drilling on the carb, taped it and added a bolt. Done.

With a spring from the brass colour lever you can just see on the left of this picture to the bolt my choke should remain open.

That's it for today.

Drive belt woes...

Well as promised the new drive belt arrived on Monday, was fitted Monday night and removed again straight away. Its too long! Looks like I measured up wrong, so I tried again and this time came out with a figure 1" shorter than previous.

Checking the Medway catalogue identified the next belt down so I ordered one. It arrived and fits nicely.

End of problem. Now I have a spare belt 1" too long for my application. Never mind, just remember measure twice buy once!

Bypass hose & Ignition wires.

Following Simon's advice and good experience with www.performancesiliconehoses.com (PSH) I ordered a 90° 16mm bend for the thermostat bypass hose. This I thought would look better than the usual black rubber effort. Expecting the stated 3-4 week delivery I was surprised that it pitched up after 1 week. Looks good.

After a bit of cutting about it fits nicely and is finished off with stainless band clamps. I'm still wondering if I can get some red ones, I know Revotech used to sell them but I cant see them on their website so a phone call is needed.

Next up I fitted the distributor in so that I can measure out for the ignition wires. The dizzy will stay loose until the engine has been timed up on Tim Adams dyno.

The wires were they sorted by length and fitted into the cable holders on the engine.

With every new bit added its really starting to look good.

My latest order from Summit arrived within 1 week of shipping, great stuff and with no import or VAT to pay! (Cue bill through the post!!) So I could fit the fuel pump base. The next bit is going to be interesting as I have to operate the level to full stroke whilst doing up the 10 perimeter bolts to 25 ft/lb's with a hex key! Calibrated wrist required here I think.

Continuing on the fuel side I also fitted the rigid line to JIC adapter, after cutting down the 3/8"" hard fuel line the adapter would not fit over so very careful adjustment to the pipe OD was carried out using a fine paper.


After about an hour and a minor amount of RSI I was able to fit the compression fitting and ferrule, apply loctite 577 fuel safe thread sealer and fir the -6 JIC to -6 JIC steel adapter.

What Ive just realised is I now need to buy a steel JIC push fit fitting to avoid Galvanic corrosion issues by using aluminium and steel fittings at the same joint.

One final thing done today was to measure up for the drive belt. I needed a 44 1/2" belt to be spot on, so after looking around I was enlightened by Happy Jim of the CRC to www.medwaypt.co.uk from whom Ive ordered a 1146K/06. This is a 1146mm (45.10") 3.56mm pitch 6 rib belt, all being well it should arrive on Monday.

That's it for today.

Plumbing bits.

A few nice bits from Think Auto arrived recently:

Oil system including take off plate and remote filter mount. Fittings and sensor adapters (need more of those!).

Fuel system including fittings and pipe also to be used for PCV.

First problem encountered as I purchased the hose finishes for -6 pipe not realising that this -6 pipe has a larger OD, therefore I need the finishers for the -8 pipe! Another order beckons!
Next problem found when trying to make the fuel pump fit. Due to the length of the fittings I either foul the oil filter take off or the water outlet.

So a quick hunt on the Edelbrock site identified a bottom feed adapter plate which is now on its way from the US along with the required fittings.

Topping out!

After a visit to my local bolt suppliers, Wessex Fastners in Swindon, I was able to bolt a few more parts on.

First up the valve covers.

Thats looking better.

Next add 1 x carb.

But dont foget to seal up a few holes.

Finally finish off with a nice new air cleaner assembly.

Its all got to come off again to check various things but I couldnt resist mocking it up.

The next thing on the list is plumbing after I ordered most of the bits I needed from Think Automotive today (very helpful) and I also need a new ACG fan and belt to complete the front.